A Primer on Cat Grooming

Article provided by Catster

Some cats require more grooming than others. Generally, the more fur a cat has, the more grooming she will need. Senior cats require more grooming because they groom themselves less meticulously. If you acclimate your cat to the grooming process as early as possible, grooming can be incident-free. If your cat simply won't allow you to groom her, find yourself a professional groomer.

Brushing
Frequent brushing is essential to keep your cat from getting hairballs, which can sometimes require surgery to remove. Brush shorthaired cats at least once weekly and longhaired cats at least every other day. When the warm weather hits in the spring, you may need to groom more often as your cat sheds her winter coat.

A de-shedding tool is especially effective at removing hair, but care should be taken when using it. Don't start by enthusiastically raking your cat's backbone and drawing blood. Gently stroke her, then draw the brush across the very top of her coat without catching any hair in the teeth or bristles.

Don't assume that what works for one will work for all. You may have to try several different brush or comb types before finding one that works well on a particular cat.

Removing Mats
Mats are painful to your cat and can restrict movement, so they should be removed as soon as you notice them. If you brush your longhaired cat every other day, it will obviate the need to remove mats. But inevitably, every longhaired cat will develop them, and you'll need to be adept at removing them without harming your cat.

The safest way to remove mats is with clippers. Have a helper hold the cat still while you shave away the mat.

If your cat has a number of mats, it's much easier and safer to take her to a professional groomer.

Bathing
Some cats rarely need baths; others, like members of the Sphynx cat breed, need weekly baths.

Bathing is easier if the cat has been accustomed to bathing since an early age. If she is not a frequent bather, you may need to prepare for battle

Living with Both Cats and Dogs

Jacque Lynn Schultz, Director, ASPCA Companion Animal Services

I'm not sure where the phrase "fighting like cats and dogs" comes from, but in the majority of homes I am acquainted with, dogs and cats share living quarters quite amiably. In fact, it is often more difficult to introduce a second female cat or a second male dog to a household than it is a member of the other species.

There are exceptions, of course. Trying to socialize stray cats that border on feral presents a serious health risk to resident dogs, even friendly ones. Dogs with strong prey drives (the desire to catch, shake and kill) can put the family cat in considerable danger.

Do fence them in

To make a successful inter-species introduction in the average household, one needs little more than a dog who understands a few rudimentary commands and a sturdy baby gate. A canine who has learned to respond to basics such as "Leave it," "Down" and "Come" can most likely be controlled around a new cat indoors.

Outdoors is another matter completely. Many otherwise cat-friendly dogs view outdoor cats as prey to be chased down and dispatched - a strong case for keeping cats indoors and dogs on a leash!

If the resident dog lacks basic manners or is the newcomer, a 4-foot house leash and buckle collar can give the caretaker control over the situation. When the dog rushes past in a raucous game of "catch the cat," step on the end of the leash. As the dog brakes and turns to look at you, utter your "Sit" or "Down" command. Don't forget to praise the dog when he complies. If he shows the slightest interest in chasing the cat, growl "Leave it" at him and praise him once again when he looks away from the cat.

The baby gate is crucial in providing a cat with dog-free territory. A nervous feline can hop the gate to find a safe haven, and a food bowl placed behind will be untouched by canine muzzles.

What's the scoop?

Placing the litterbox behind the gate will insure that cat feces stay right where the cat leaves them. You may be thinking, "Ugh, how tasteless!", but the dog's response is more likely to be, "Yum! How tasty!" Anticipate this eventuality and prepare for it.

In some situations, a gate will not be a viable solution. If this is the case in your home, creative thinking will play a crucial role in household management. Is your bathtub tall and your dog small? If so, then a litterbox at one end and a food dish at the other will adequately meet your cat's needs.

A covered litterbox prevents thievery in some cases, but beware! More than one dog has managed to get its head caught in the box and run hither and yon trying to break free. In one case I learned of, the cat was in the litterbox when the dog got the cover stuck on his head. Could a case of lapsed litterbox visits be far behind?

If you own your home, there are more viable options open to you. Some folks cut cat-sized openings in linen closet doors or bathroom vanities as a good way to both keep Bowser out of the cat box and the box itself out of view.

Separate tables

As for alternative feeding stations, countertops and wide window sills can provide out-of-reach dining spots for felines. Remember, cat food and dog food are not interchangeable. Much research has gone into developing specialized canine and feline diets. Keeping them out of each other's bowls is crucial.

With a little forethought, a home occupied by dogs and cats is a living example of The Peaceable Kingdom. Thoughtful management can guarantee that a full house is always a winner.

Senior Cats need adoption too!

10 Reasons Senior Cats Rule

1. When senior cats are adopted, they seem to understand that they've been rescued, and are all the more thankful for it.
   
2. A senior cat's personality has already developed, so you'll know if he or she is a good fit for your family.
   
3. You can teach an old cat new tricks (I do every day with my own cats!): Senior cats have the attention span and impulse control that makes them easier to train than their youthful counterparts.
   
4. A senior cat may very well already know basic household etiquette (like not attacking your feet at night) anyway!
   
5. In particular, senior cats are often already litter trained and are less likely to "forget" where the box is.
   
6. A senior cat won't grow any larger, so you'll know exactly how much cat you're getting.
   
7. Senior cats are often content to just relax in your company, unlike younger cats, who may get into mischief because they're bored.
   
8. Speaking of relaxing, senior cats make great napping buddies.
   
9. Senior cats often know that scratching posts (not furniture) are for scratching and toys (not hands or feet) are for biting.
   
10. Senior cats are some of the hardest to find homes for -- so when you adopt a senior cat, you're truly saving a life.

Why Microchip Your Pet?

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Registered microchips give lost pets the best chance of returning home.

The statistics indicate that missing pets rarely make it home:

• The American Humane Association estimates over 10 million dogs and cats are lost or stolen in the U.S. every year.

• One in three pets will become lost at some point during their life.

A study published in the Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association, including 53 animal shelters across the U.S., confirmed the high rate of return of microchipped dogs and cats to their families, and the importance of microchip registration. From the study:

• Only about 22 percent of lost dogs that entered the animal shelters were reunited with their families. However, the return-to-owner rate for microchipped dogs was over 52 percent (a 238 percent increase).

• Less than 2 percent of lost cats that entered the animal shelters were reunited with their families. The return-to-owner rate for microchipped cats was dramatically higher at over 38 percent (more than 2000 percent better).

• Only 58 percent of the microchipped animals’ microchips had been registered in a database with their pet parent’s contact information.

High-tech protection can prevent heartbreak.

Enter the pet microchip — a simple, elegant product of our high-tech age. No bigger than a grain of rice or more costly than a month’s supply of pet food, a pet microchip and enrollment in a pet recovery database brings lost pets home and provides peace of mind that your beloved companion will never wander unknown.

Veterinarians encourage microchipping.

And with good reason—microchipping substantially increases the likelihood of a pet returning home by offering secure, reliable, unique and permanent identification.

Learn from Cesar!!

6 Tips for Mastering the Dog Walk

By Cesar Millan
Here are 6 dog training tips on how to walk your dog and master the dog walk. When I’m out with my dog pack, I often walk about ten dogs at a time, sometimes even off-leash if I'm in a safe area. People are amazed by this, but it's simple: the dogs see me as their pack leader. This is why dogs follow me wherever I go.

1. Walk in front of your dog.

Walking in front of your dog allows you to be seen as the pack leader. Conversely, if your dog controls you on the walk, he’s the pack leader. You should be the first one out the door and the first one in. Your dog should be beside or behind you during the walk.

2. Use a short dog leash.

This allows you to have more control. Attaching the leash to the very top of the neck can help you more easily communicate, guide, and correct your dog. If you need additional help, consider the Illusion collar. Always keep your dog's safety in mind when giving corrections.

3. Give yourself enough time for the dog walk.

Dogs, like humans, are diurnal, so taking walks in the morning is ideal. I recommend setting aside thirty minutes to a full hour. The specific needs of each dog differ. Consult your vet and keep an eye on your dog's behavior to see if his needs are being met.

4. How to reward your dog during the walk.

After your dog has maintained the proper state of mind, reward him by allowing him to relieve himself and sniff around. Then you need to decide when reward time is over. It should always be less than the time spent focused on the walk.

5. Keep leading, even after the walk.

When you get home, don't stop leading. Have your dog wait patiently while you put away his leash or take off your shoes.

6. Reward your dog after the walk.

By providing a meal after the walk, you have allowed your dog to "work" for food and water.
And don’t forget to set a good example by always picking up after your dog!

Basic Commands for Bird training

Basic Commands
A few basic behaviors that every companion bird should know are:
STEP-UP COMMAND: The most important behavior you can teach your bird is the Step-up command, in which your bird reliably steps onto your finger, wrist or onto a hand-held perch. Your bird should automatically offer a foot when you say “Step up” (or whatever cue you use) while you simultaneously offer the hand or perch.
A reliable Step-up makes it easier to retrieve your bird in an inconvenient or even dangerous situation. It also ensures that other people can work with or retrieve the bird without either party feeling nervous or threatened.
To get your bird stepping up, gently offer your wrist, finger or perch at the spot where your bird’s abdomen meets the top of its legs, and give the cue, “Step up.” Most birds will naturally raise a foot to step onto the offered object. Praise and reward the bird, and then repeat the step up a few times.

Keep your hand or wrist steady, so your bird feels confident stepping onto it. 
STEP-DOWN COMMAND: You can also train your bird to step down onto a playgym or its cage. If your bird likes hanging out with you, you’ll have to make it worth its while to step down.
CONTACT CALL: You are your bird’s flock, so naturally it wants to keep track of where you are. Teach your bird a special whistle, word or phrase to use when it wants you to respond. If taught correctly, this contact call can replace that ear-piercing shriek that your bird likes to use when you leave the room.

If your bird has already learned that screaming seems to make you reappear or respond (i.e. yell or admonish), it will take much more persistence and patience to change the behavior.
To teach your bird a contact call, use a consistent phrase – “Be right back” – each time that you leave the room. Call frequently to your bird while you are out of sight. This will let it know that you are nearby.
If your bird makes the desired contact call, respond immediately by either calling in return or poking your head into the room. Do not respond when your bird is screaming.
Consistency is crucial in this training. It might not seem like such a bad idea to occasionally respond to your bird’s screams, but resist the urge. You’ll be rewarded later on.

Bird Training

The Basics
Training with your pet bird should be fun. Here are some training tips to keep you both happy.
1) Keep your sessions short. Two or three 10-minute sessions every day works best to retain your bird’s attention.

2) Let your pet bird get used to props by leaving them near the cage for a few days. Play with the items to pique your pet bird’s interest.

3) Find a quiet place free of distractions to work together. Keep the cage out of sight, so your pet bird’s attention is on you during the training session. The exception to this rule is a frightened or insecure re-homed bird that might need to see its cage for reassurance.

4) Find a special reward that you only give to your pet bird during training. A food reward should be something small and easily consumed within a few seconds. Or, if your bird enjoys praise or a head scratch, offer these instead of food.

5) Train at the same time every day, so your pet bird can look forward to your new routine together.

6) Keep it positive and offer lots of praise if your pet bird gets even part of the trick or training correct.