A Primer on Cat Grooming

Article provided by Catster

Some cats require more grooming than others. Generally, the more fur a cat has, the more grooming she will need. Senior cats require more grooming because they groom themselves less meticulously. If you acclimate your cat to the grooming process as early as possible, grooming can be incident-free. If your cat simply won't allow you to groom her, find yourself a professional groomer.

Brushing
Frequent brushing is essential to keep your cat from getting hairballs, which can sometimes require surgery to remove. Brush shorthaired cats at least once weekly and longhaired cats at least every other day. When the warm weather hits in the spring, you may need to groom more often as your cat sheds her winter coat.

A de-shedding tool is especially effective at removing hair, but care should be taken when using it. Don't start by enthusiastically raking your cat's backbone and drawing blood. Gently stroke her, then draw the brush across the very top of her coat without catching any hair in the teeth or bristles.

Don't assume that what works for one will work for all. You may have to try several different brush or comb types before finding one that works well on a particular cat.

Removing Mats
Mats are painful to your cat and can restrict movement, so they should be removed as soon as you notice them. If you brush your longhaired cat every other day, it will obviate the need to remove mats. But inevitably, every longhaired cat will develop them, and you'll need to be adept at removing them without harming your cat.

The safest way to remove mats is with clippers. Have a helper hold the cat still while you shave away the mat.

If your cat has a number of mats, it's much easier and safer to take her to a professional groomer.

Bathing
Some cats rarely need baths; others, like members of the Sphynx cat breed, need weekly baths.

Bathing is easier if the cat has been accustomed to bathing since an early age. If she is not a frequent bather, you may need to prepare for battle

Living with Both Cats and Dogs

Jacque Lynn Schultz, Director, ASPCA Companion Animal Services

I'm not sure where the phrase "fighting like cats and dogs" comes from, but in the majority of homes I am acquainted with, dogs and cats share living quarters quite amiably. In fact, it is often more difficult to introduce a second female cat or a second male dog to a household than it is a member of the other species.

There are exceptions, of course. Trying to socialize stray cats that border on feral presents a serious health risk to resident dogs, even friendly ones. Dogs with strong prey drives (the desire to catch, shake and kill) can put the family cat in considerable danger.

Do fence them in

To make a successful inter-species introduction in the average household, one needs little more than a dog who understands a few rudimentary commands and a sturdy baby gate. A canine who has learned to respond to basics such as "Leave it," "Down" and "Come" can most likely be controlled around a new cat indoors.

Outdoors is another matter completely. Many otherwise cat-friendly dogs view outdoor cats as prey to be chased down and dispatched - a strong case for keeping cats indoors and dogs on a leash!

If the resident dog lacks basic manners or is the newcomer, a 4-foot house leash and buckle collar can give the caretaker control over the situation. When the dog rushes past in a raucous game of "catch the cat," step on the end of the leash. As the dog brakes and turns to look at you, utter your "Sit" or "Down" command. Don't forget to praise the dog when he complies. If he shows the slightest interest in chasing the cat, growl "Leave it" at him and praise him once again when he looks away from the cat.

The baby gate is crucial in providing a cat with dog-free territory. A nervous feline can hop the gate to find a safe haven, and a food bowl placed behind will be untouched by canine muzzles.

What's the scoop?

Placing the litterbox behind the gate will insure that cat feces stay right where the cat leaves them. You may be thinking, "Ugh, how tasteless!", but the dog's response is more likely to be, "Yum! How tasty!" Anticipate this eventuality and prepare for it.

In some situations, a gate will not be a viable solution. If this is the case in your home, creative thinking will play a crucial role in household management. Is your bathtub tall and your dog small? If so, then a litterbox at one end and a food dish at the other will adequately meet your cat's needs.

A covered litterbox prevents thievery in some cases, but beware! More than one dog has managed to get its head caught in the box and run hither and yon trying to break free. In one case I learned of, the cat was in the litterbox when the dog got the cover stuck on his head. Could a case of lapsed litterbox visits be far behind?

If you own your home, there are more viable options open to you. Some folks cut cat-sized openings in linen closet doors or bathroom vanities as a good way to both keep Bowser out of the cat box and the box itself out of view.

Separate tables

As for alternative feeding stations, countertops and wide window sills can provide out-of-reach dining spots for felines. Remember, cat food and dog food are not interchangeable. Much research has gone into developing specialized canine and feline diets. Keeping them out of each other's bowls is crucial.

With a little forethought, a home occupied by dogs and cats is a living example of The Peaceable Kingdom. Thoughtful management can guarantee that a full house is always a winner.

Senior Cats need adoption too!

10 Reasons Senior Cats Rule

1. When senior cats are adopted, they seem to understand that they've been rescued, and are all the more thankful for it.
   
2. A senior cat's personality has already developed, so you'll know if he or she is a good fit for your family.
   
3. You can teach an old cat new tricks (I do every day with my own cats!): Senior cats have the attention span and impulse control that makes them easier to train than their youthful counterparts.
   
4. A senior cat may very well already know basic household etiquette (like not attacking your feet at night) anyway!
   
5. In particular, senior cats are often already litter trained and are less likely to "forget" where the box is.
   
6. A senior cat won't grow any larger, so you'll know exactly how much cat you're getting.
   
7. Senior cats are often content to just relax in your company, unlike younger cats, who may get into mischief because they're bored.
   
8. Speaking of relaxing, senior cats make great napping buddies.
   
9. Senior cats often know that scratching posts (not furniture) are for scratching and toys (not hands or feet) are for biting.
   
10. Senior cats are some of the hardest to find homes for -- so when you adopt a senior cat, you're truly saving a life.

Why Microchip Your Pet?

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Registered microchips give lost pets the best chance of returning home.

The statistics indicate that missing pets rarely make it home:

• The American Humane Association estimates over 10 million dogs and cats are lost or stolen in the U.S. every year.

• One in three pets will become lost at some point during their life.

A study published in the Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association, including 53 animal shelters across the U.S., confirmed the high rate of return of microchipped dogs and cats to their families, and the importance of microchip registration. From the study:

• Only about 22 percent of lost dogs that entered the animal shelters were reunited with their families. However, the return-to-owner rate for microchipped dogs was over 52 percent (a 238 percent increase).

• Less than 2 percent of lost cats that entered the animal shelters were reunited with their families. The return-to-owner rate for microchipped cats was dramatically higher at over 38 percent (more than 2000 percent better).

• Only 58 percent of the microchipped animals’ microchips had been registered in a database with their pet parent’s contact information.

High-tech protection can prevent heartbreak.

Enter the pet microchip — a simple, elegant product of our high-tech age. No bigger than a grain of rice or more costly than a month’s supply of pet food, a pet microchip and enrollment in a pet recovery database brings lost pets home and provides peace of mind that your beloved companion will never wander unknown.

Veterinarians encourage microchipping.

And with good reason—microchipping substantially increases the likelihood of a pet returning home by offering secure, reliable, unique and permanent identification.

Learn from Cesar!!

6 Tips for Mastering the Dog Walk

By Cesar Millan
Here are 6 dog training tips on how to walk your dog and master the dog walk. When I’m out with my dog pack, I often walk about ten dogs at a time, sometimes even off-leash if I'm in a safe area. People are amazed by this, but it's simple: the dogs see me as their pack leader. This is why dogs follow me wherever I go.

1. Walk in front of your dog.

Walking in front of your dog allows you to be seen as the pack leader. Conversely, if your dog controls you on the walk, he’s the pack leader. You should be the first one out the door and the first one in. Your dog should be beside or behind you during the walk.

2. Use a short dog leash.

This allows you to have more control. Attaching the leash to the very top of the neck can help you more easily communicate, guide, and correct your dog. If you need additional help, consider the Illusion collar. Always keep your dog's safety in mind when giving corrections.

3. Give yourself enough time for the dog walk.

Dogs, like humans, are diurnal, so taking walks in the morning is ideal. I recommend setting aside thirty minutes to a full hour. The specific needs of each dog differ. Consult your vet and keep an eye on your dog's behavior to see if his needs are being met.

4. How to reward your dog during the walk.

After your dog has maintained the proper state of mind, reward him by allowing him to relieve himself and sniff around. Then you need to decide when reward time is over. It should always be less than the time spent focused on the walk.

5. Keep leading, even after the walk.

When you get home, don't stop leading. Have your dog wait patiently while you put away his leash or take off your shoes.

6. Reward your dog after the walk.

By providing a meal after the walk, you have allowed your dog to "work" for food and water.
And don’t forget to set a good example by always picking up after your dog!

Basic Commands for Bird training

Basic Commands
A few basic behaviors that every companion bird should know are:
STEP-UP COMMAND: The most important behavior you can teach your bird is the Step-up command, in which your bird reliably steps onto your finger, wrist or onto a hand-held perch. Your bird should automatically offer a foot when you say “Step up” (or whatever cue you use) while you simultaneously offer the hand or perch.
A reliable Step-up makes it easier to retrieve your bird in an inconvenient or even dangerous situation. It also ensures that other people can work with or retrieve the bird without either party feeling nervous or threatened.
To get your bird stepping up, gently offer your wrist, finger or perch at the spot where your bird’s abdomen meets the top of its legs, and give the cue, “Step up.” Most birds will naturally raise a foot to step onto the offered object. Praise and reward the bird, and then repeat the step up a few times.

Keep your hand or wrist steady, so your bird feels confident stepping onto it. 
STEP-DOWN COMMAND: You can also train your bird to step down onto a playgym or its cage. If your bird likes hanging out with you, you’ll have to make it worth its while to step down.
CONTACT CALL: You are your bird’s flock, so naturally it wants to keep track of where you are. Teach your bird a special whistle, word or phrase to use when it wants you to respond. If taught correctly, this contact call can replace that ear-piercing shriek that your bird likes to use when you leave the room.

If your bird has already learned that screaming seems to make you reappear or respond (i.e. yell or admonish), it will take much more persistence and patience to change the behavior.
To teach your bird a contact call, use a consistent phrase – “Be right back” – each time that you leave the room. Call frequently to your bird while you are out of sight. This will let it know that you are nearby.
If your bird makes the desired contact call, respond immediately by either calling in return or poking your head into the room. Do not respond when your bird is screaming.
Consistency is crucial in this training. It might not seem like such a bad idea to occasionally respond to your bird’s screams, but resist the urge. You’ll be rewarded later on.

Bird Training

The Basics
Training with your pet bird should be fun. Here are some training tips to keep you both happy.
1) Keep your sessions short. Two or three 10-minute sessions every day works best to retain your bird’s attention.

2) Let your pet bird get used to props by leaving them near the cage for a few days. Play with the items to pique your pet bird’s interest.

3) Find a quiet place free of distractions to work together. Keep the cage out of sight, so your pet bird’s attention is on you during the training session. The exception to this rule is a frightened or insecure re-homed bird that might need to see its cage for reassurance.

4) Find a special reward that you only give to your pet bird during training. A food reward should be something small and easily consumed within a few seconds. Or, if your bird enjoys praise or a head scratch, offer these instead of food.

5) Train at the same time every day, so your pet bird can look forward to your new routine together.

6) Keep it positive and offer lots of praise if your pet bird gets even part of the trick or training correct.

The HSUS Supports the U.S. Department of Transportation’s Proposed Rule to Protect Pets on Planes

Greater safeguards for animals ensured with stronger reporting requirements

The Humane Society of the United States praises the U.S. Department of Transportation for proposing to strengthen regulations regarding the transportation of animals on airplanes.

Under the parameters of a proposed rule, 36 airlines would be required to report any companion animal incidents that happen in their cargo holds, up from 15 airlines currently required to provide annual reports to the DOT.  Carriers also would have to report the number of animal losses, injuries and deaths and the total number of animals transported each year.

The HSUS often receives complaints of animals in airplane cargo areas dying or suffering from injuries, often because of excessively hot or cold temperatures, poor ventilation, scarcity of oxygen, and rough handling. Animals have also been lost during commercial flights. 

“We applaud the Department of Transportation for proposing to expand this rule because it will keep dogs and cats safer on planes,” said Inga Fricke, director of sheltering and pet care issues for The HSUS. “Requiring stronger reporting requirements of airline carriers will force carriers to better handle animals during transport, providing the oversight needed. It would also give consumers clarity when choosing an animal friendly airline, and travelers would be able to compare carriers’ rates of animal deaths and injuries.”

Another significant change to the rule proposed is that the regulations also would apply to dogs and cats being shipped for commercial sale. Because of the growth in online sales of animals, particularly dogs, many operators of inhumane commercial breeding facilities, or puppy mills, transport dogs to pet stores and to new owners via airplanes. The rule would also cover dogs and cats being shipped and sold for experimentation. The proposed requirements for tracking and reporting data on animals shipped for commercial sale will provide vital data on the scope of these industries, and should improve the handling and welfare of those animals.

The HSUS recommends that pet owners avoid traveling by air with their pets. If air travel is unavoidable, it is best to carry the animal on board in a pet carrier kept under a seat in the passenger area. Pet owners should avoid flying pets as cargo unless absolutely necessary. The HSUS has tips for pet owners who must travel with their pets at humanesociety.org/airtravel.

Aggression Between Cats

The Humane Society of the United States

Your cat's best friend may not be another cat. Cats are very territorial creatures and often vehemently defend their turf.

Two's company

Many people adopt a second cat thinking that the resident cat will be happy. This is a risky move. Just because your cat is sweet and loving with you doesn't mean he's going to be sweet to another cat.

Although you can increase the chances that they will get along or at least tolerate one another by making proper introductions, there's no way to predict whether cats will get along with each other. Unfortunately, there's no training method that can guarantee that they ever will. But we're here to help negotiate a truce.

Types of aggressive behaviors

First, let's understand the different types of aggression and what causes them.

Territorial aggression: This occurs when a cat feels that an intruder has invaded her territory.

• A cat may be aggressive toward one cat (usually the most passive), yet friendly and tolerant with another. 
• Problems often occur when a new cat is brought home, a young kitten reaches maturity, or a cat sees or encounters neighborhood cats outside.
• Typical behavior includes stalking, chasing, ambushing, hissing, loud meowing, swatting, and preventing access to places (such as the litter box, bedroom, etc.)
• Female cats can be just as territorial as males.

Inter-male aggression: Adult male cats may threaten, and sometimes fight with, other males. This is more common among unneutered cats. They may fight over a female, for a higher place on the totem pole, or to defend territory.
Cats stalk, stare, yowl, howl, and puff up their fur (picture the arched back of the Halloween cat) to back each other down.  If one does back down and walk away, the aggressor, having made his point, will usually walk away as well.

If no one backs down, cats may actually fight. They may roll around biting, kicking, swatting, and screaming, suddenly stop, resume posturing, fight again, or walk away. If you see signs that a fight may occur, distract the cats by clapping loudly, tossing a pillow nearby, or squirting them with water. These actions can also be used to break up a fight.Keep your distance.

Defensive aggression: Defensive aggression occurs when a cat tries to protect himself from an animal or human attacker he believes he can't escape.

This can occur in response to:

• Punishment or the threat of punishment from a person
• An attack or attempted attack from another cat
• Any incident that makes the animal feel threatened or afraid 

Defensive postures include:

• Crouching with the legs and tail pulled in under the body
• Flattening the ears against the head
• Rolling slightly to the side

Continuing to approach a cat in this posture is likely to cause an attack.

Redirected aggression: Cats direct this type of aggression toward another animal, or even a person, who didn't initially provoke the behavior.

For example, your cat is sitting in the window and sees an outdoor cat walk across the front yard.  He gets very agitated because that cat is in his territory. You pet him; he turns and bites you. He doesn’t even know who you are at that point—he's so worked up about the cat outside that he attacks the first thing that crosses his path.

Smoothing ruffled feathers

Your first step should always be to contact your veterinarian for a thorough health examination. Cats often hide symptoms of illness until they're seriously ill; your aggressive cat may be feeling sick and taking out his misery on others. 

If your cat gets a clean bill of health, consult your vet or an animal behavior specialist for help. A behaviorist will advise you on what can be done. You may need to start the introduction process all over again, keep the cats in separate areas of your home, or even find one of the cats a new home if the aggression is extreme and can’t be resolved.

Consult with your veterinarian about a short course of anti-anxiety medication for your cats while you're working on changing their behavior/s. Never medicate your cat on your own.

Prevent future fights

This could mean keeping the cats separated from each other while you work on the problem, or at least preventing contact between them during situations likely to trigger a fight.

Spay or neuter your pets. The behavior of one intact animal can negatively affect all of your pets.

What to avoid

• Don't count on the cats to "work things out." The more theyfight, the worse the problem is likely to become. To stop a fight in progress, make a loud noise (like blowing a whistle), squirt the cats with water or throw something soft at them.
• Don't touch them, or you might get seriously scratched or bitten. Seek medical attention if you're injured.
• Don't punish the cats involved. Punishment could cause further aggression and fearful responses, which will only make the problem worse. You could even become a target for redirected aggression. 
• Don't add more cats. Some cats are willing to share their house and territory with multiple cats, but the more cats who share the same territory, the more likely it is that some of your cats will not get along with each other.

It's a mystery

Many factors determine how well cats will get along with one another, but even animal behavior experts don't fully understand them.

We do know that cats who are well-socialized (those who had pleasant experiences with other cats during kittenhood) will likely be more sociable than those who haven't been around many other cats.

On the other hand, "street cats," who are in the habit of fighting with other cats to defend their territory and food, might not do well in a multi-cat household.

Don’t be a pill! Never give your cat any medications without your veterinarian’s advice. Many common human drugs (like aspirin and acetaminophen [Tylenol]) can poison cats.

Get nosey
Cats noses should be clean, and, depending on his activity level and the ambient temperature, his nose may be cold or warm. If he paws at his nose, sneezes frequently, or there is a discharge, contact your veterinarian.

Open wide
Healthy gums are pink, pale or bright; red gums may mean something is wrong. Drooling and pawing at the mouth are cause for conern as well. Brown streaks and tartar build-up on the teeth may indicate a dental problem. Your cat’s breath should not be so bad that you can’t stand to have him near you.

Eye spy
Look for bright, clear, evenly focused eyes. Redness, discoloration or discharge, squinting, or the emergence of the third eyelid can signal that your cat has a problem.

Lend an ear
The hairless part of your cat’s ears should be clean and odorless. If your cat is having problems, he may shake his head a lot and scratch his ears. Check for flaking, scabs, foul odor, or discharge. If you see a black, gritty substance inside, he probably has ear mites, a parasite that causes severe itching and is contagious to other cats.

Skin deep
While petting your cat, feel for any lumps, scratches, scabs, swelling, or any other irregularities. Dandruff, oily fur, and missing fur can indicate skin or internal problems. Part the fur to look for fleas; specks that look like black pepper are actually “flea dirt” (flea feces that contain your cat’s blood and turn red when wet).

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We carry a large variety of fresh and saltwater fish and supplies.

Call for availability on the birds

Take Your Pet to Work Day

Stress is everywhere in the workplace these days. What better way to reduce this stress than by bringing your lovable pooch to work with you?
Researchers have discovered that pets provide many health benefits, one of which is lowering of the blood pressure. More and more companies are starting to allow you to bring your dog to work with you - but for this to be a success for you, the dog, and the company, here are a few tips to help pooch settle in:

• Only bring dogs that are properly socialized and well-behaved.Your pooch must be able to get along with other people and pets, and must not bark, fight, or otherwise misbehave. You are still at a place of business; your pet must not disrupt the work of your coworkers or clients. If you find your dog misbehaving, you can try providing him with more exercise. Tired dogs are good dogs! Take him out for a long walk before work so that he’ll be calm when you get in. At lunch, play a game of fetch or take him for a jog. If you can’t do provide him with enough exercise, think of hiring someone else to do it for you.
  Oh - and be sure to take him out regularly for bathroom breaks. You can’t blame a dog for misbehaving when he’s really got to go!
  
• Bring doggie essentials. Be sure he has a food and water bowl, some toys (no noisy ones!), a blanket or bed, a brush or comb, and some treats. You’ll also want to bring a clean-up kit just in case poochie has an accident.
• Keep your dog confined to your space.Hard though it may be to believe, some people are not fond of dogs. Others may have allergies. Regardless of the reason, you should have a way of keeping your pooch beside you. Some examples are: tying his leash to your desk; erecting a pet gate; using a kennel; or simply shutting your office door.
  

There are thousands upon thousands of people who would love to have their pets beside them at work. If you’re one of the lucky ones with this opportunity, take some time to help your pooch adjust. You’ll be able to enjoy each other’s companionship throughout the day - and your dog can bask in the attention of your pet-loving coworkers and his new doggie-friends!

Source: pawsperouspets.com

Regular visits to the veterinarian are an essential part of keeping your cat healthy. An excellent way for you to keep tabs on him in between vet visits is to do your own nose-to-tail checkups at home.
Get in the habit of running your hands all over your cat’s body whenever he’s cuddling with you or you’re grooming him. This is the best way to discover problems before they become serious

Pet Humor

A Dog’s Daily Routine The day is divided into two important sections: the all-important mealtime, and everything else. I. Mealtime Just because there does not seem to be anything visible around to eat certainly does not mean there is nothing around to eat. The act of staring at the underside of a table or chair on which someone else is eating sets in motion a chain of events that eventually results in food. It goes without saying that you should carefully check the lower third of any space for edibles. Mouth-sized things which cannot be identified by sight or smell are considered gum. When you actually receive a meal, submerge your head into it as you would a shower. Never, never look up again until a minimum of at least fifteen minutes after the obvious food is gone. This is important. Just because your dish is empty does not mean that it is time to stop eating. Remember that all food is potentially yours up until the time that it is actually swallowed by another. The lengthy path a piece of food will take from a plate to a mouth via a hand is as good a time as any to stake your claim to it. When it comes to selecting an appropriate beverage, location and packaging mean nothing. There are absolutely no exceptions to this rule. If you really see something you want, and all your other attempts at getting it have failed, it is only right to grovel shamelessly. As a second tactic, stare intently at the object of your desire, allowing long gelatinous drools to leak like icicles from your lower lip. II. Everything Else There are really only two important facial expressions to bother with: complete and overwhelming joy and nothing at all. Any time that is not meal time is potentially nap time. The best time to take a nap is when you hear your name being called repeatedly. The best location for a nap is dead center of any street or driveway. The most relaxing position is on your side, all four limbs parallel. The most practical way to get dry is to shake violently near a fully clothed person. A second effective method is to stand on a light-colored piece of furniture. Personal Safety At the first hint of any irregular noise, run from room to room barking loudly. If someone actually comes into the house, rush over to them whether you know them or not. Then kiss them so violently that they lose their balance or have to force you away physically. The greatest unacknowledged threat to life as we have come to know it is squirrels. No matter what you must do, make sure there are none in your yard. Recreation and Leisure Ball: There are two equally amusing sets of rules you will want to know. The Common Form, in which you receive a thrown ball and return it. The Preferred Form, in which you receive a thrown ball and eat it. Car: As you know, any open car door is an invitation to get in. Once inside, your only goal is to try to get out. Health: In the event of a trip to the doctor, always be on your guard. If you are vaccinated, urinate on the physician.

Source: pawsperouspets.com

The Benefits of Spaying or Neutering Your Pet

Spaying and neutering refer to the surgical sterilization of an animal. In other words, spaying and neutering ensures that your pet cannot reproduce.

Pets are typically spayed or neutered when they are 4-6 months old although the procedure can be done from as early as 8 weeks old through to adulthood. It is best to have this surgery done before your pet reaches sexual maturity. Females should be spayed before their first heat. Some vets will also perform pediatric spay/neuter. Please consult with your vet.

We all have a responsibility to prevent unwanted animals from being euthanized everyday, simply because there are no homes for them. Even if your pet has a litter and you find homes for all of them, each of those pets takes a potential home away from other homeless pets waiting in a shelter. But aside from this responsibility, there are also significant health benefits for your pet.

Benefits of Spaying

• Prevents pregnancy and the complications arising from pregnancy and delivery

• Eliminates the heat cycle - you won’t have to listen to the sounds of your female in heat, trying to get out and find a mate

• Prevents unwelcome males from trying to seek out your female pet in heat

• Reduces the urge to roam. This makes it less likely that you will lose your pet, which in turn makes your pet less likely to contract a disease, get in a fight, get injured, or become a victim to cruelty, poison, or traffic.

• Eliminates sexual discomfort, distress, or distraction … making your pet happier and more content.

• Reduces or eliminates the possibility of disease in the reproductive system.

Benefits of Neutering

• Reduces the distracting and destructive behavior associated with the male’s efforts to get out and find a mate

• Reduces the urge to roam. This makes it less likely that you will lose your pet, which in turn makes your pet less likely to contract a disease, get in a fight, get injured, or become a victim to cruelty, poison, or traffic.

• Eliminates sexual discomfort, distress, or distraction … making your pet happier and more content.

• Eliminates testicular tumors and reduces prostate gland problems.

• In cats, neutering stops or reduces marking behavior (territorial spraying of urine).

• Reduces the urge to fight.

Call us to find out which puppies and kittens we currently have available!

 

 

 

 

Preparing for A New Pet

Before you bring your new friend home, it’s best to be prepared to prevent unnecessary confusion and stress.

• Establish the rules. Decide who’s responsible for what: grooming, feeding, exercising, cleaning, play-time, and so on. Also establish whether or not there will be areas that are “off-limits” for your new pet. For example, you may not want your pet to sleep on the bed.

• Have all the necessary supplies ready. Examples are food, food and water bowls, leash or harness, collar and identification, brush, and so on. Take a look at the cat budget or the dog budget for more information.

• Pet-proof your home. Some things you may want to consider include:

Lock away household chemicals, such as cleansers, insecticide, antifreeze, and others. Animals are especially attracted to antifreeze; be sure to clean up spills immediately and keep the rest out of reach as even a small amount can be fatal.

Place houseplants out of reach. Many houseplants are poisonous.

Have separate areas for your new pet and any existing pets. Pets need to be introduced to one another slowly; be sure you have an extra room or a kennel so that your pets can be separated until they have grown accustomed to each other.

Tie electrical cords out of the way, if you can. Dogs and cats can chew on electrical cords - or even catch them while walking (or running!) around, causing lamps, TVs, radios, etc. to fall.

Keep doors closed - this includes the doors to your washer and dryer, your closets, the cupboards … inquisitive little animals can sneak in just about anywhere!

Keep household trinkets out of your pet’s reach. Stuff like garbage, medicine, pins, elastics, thread, needles, and so on should be placed out of the way.

• Make sure everyone knows how to properly handle your pet. Everyone should know how to safely pick up your pet. Also emphasize certain rules such as your pet should never be disturbed while eating.

• Keep other pets away at first. Your new pet may be nervous … help him or her feel more comfortable by keeping your other pets confined until you are ready to slowly introduce them.

We offer a wide selection of specialty pet food and non-prescription pet medicines that meet any pet’s needs!

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